This is the DML #6370, "Panther G w/ Steel Road Wheels" built up with the AM-Works "PE Up-date Set for DML Panther G 'Smart' Kits," #LW35054. The main gun barrel has been replaced with the Aber #35L56, "7,5 cm KwK L/70 - Panther G Late Production" gun barrel, and the tracks are Fruil #ATL-08, "Panther Late Type Tracks."
Basic finish is Tamiya acrylics. Paint mixes are calculated by-drop dispensed using an eye-dropper. The dark yellow base coat is XF-60 + XF-2 + XF-57 mixed at a ratio of 20 drops:10 drops:10 drops. The red brown is XF-64 + XF-60 + XF-55 mixed at a ratio of 20 drops: 8 drops: 1 drop. The olive green is XF-58 + XF-60 + XF-55 mixed at a ratio of 20 drops: 12 drops: 2 drops. For airbrushing, the paint mixes were reduced with a mixture of Tamiya X-20A + lacquer thinner. Again, using drops, the thinner was mixed 50 drops: 30 drops respectively. The approximate ratios of mixed color paints and reducer was 80 drops : 60 drops. To this final mixture, reduced for airbrushing, approximately 5 drops of Tamiya X-22 Clear. The clear retards the drying time of the paint slightly, keeping it from drying in the airbrush tip. It also replaces some of the binder (without add additional color) and improves the curing and adhesion of the color coats.
The basic 3-color camouflage was applied free-hand with the MAN-style "disk" ambush pattern sprayed through the Uschi von der Rosten self-adhesive soft masks. The tactical turret numbers were stenciled on using the AM-Works PE stencils "Turret Numbers for Large German Tanks." Other markings were applied using combinations of stencils and water-slide decals from various other manufacturers.
Detail painting and weathering was done with Citadel (Games Workshop) and Vallejo acrylics. Artist oils were used for color filters and general and pin washes, as needed. A "dust" colored transparent glaze was sprayed on to tone down the contrasts between the different areas and details. This glaze was mixed using Tamiya XF-57 Buff + X-22 Clear mixed at 1 drop: 2 drops and reduced with 60 drops of the previously described thinner mixture. This glaze with built-up gradually over the entire model with areas of concentration around obvious locations such as the edges of the hull sponsons and front fenders.
Gamblin artist pigments were used for the areas of heavy, textured "dirt and mud" accumulations. These pigments were generally applied dry over areas that had been wetted with ordinary tap water. After the water dried, the thickness of the pigment application was adjusted using a camel hair round brush and "fixed" with light over sprays of Testors Flat Coat (Dull Coat) lacquer.
The major deviation from the kit's assembly is in the suspension. The road wheels used were the rubber tired ones included in the kit instead of the steel wheels shown on the box art and in the instructions. Also, the excellent engineering of the DML kit's suspension allows it to be articulated easily. This is accomplished by removing the locator pins on the lower hull edges and from the outside of the bend in each swing arm. The swing arms are then not glued into their mounting holes. The molded-on torsion bars can simply be glued and anchored at their opposi interior ends. This allows the swing arms to move up and down. During final assembly onto the terrain base, the swing arms can be glued and on the inside of the hull through the turret ring thus fixing their postions.
The kit's drive sprockets require that their toothed rings be thinned down so that the sprocket teeth will fit into the holes on the Fruil tracks. This is best done by sanding down their inside faces to preserve their exterior details. The ideler wheels also need to be thinned down slightly to fit between the guide horns on the Fruil tracks. Again, this is easly accomplished by sanding until they will roll between the guide horns without binding.
The majority of the rest of the kit was assembled as per the kit instructions, referring to various references to ensure that the correct optional parts were used for the Sep '44 production vehicle being modeled.
Most of the AM-Works PE assemblies were soldered together for both strength and appearance. The soldered assemblies also allow realistic "battle damage," such as seen on the left front fender, the cleaning rod stowage tube, and right rear stowage box.
